BASICS - THE COLOUR WHEEL
Mastering
the art of concealer has a lot to do with understanding the basics of colour
correction. They are the magic wands of makeup: covering blotchy skin, unsightly blemishes, dark circles – the list goes on. Well, it turns out pro concealing is kind of an art form and it’s called colour correcting. The theory behind it is pretty simple; opposites on the colour wheel cancel each other out.
Makeup is an art form?
Well, remember learning about the colour wheel in elementary school art
class? Way back when, we learned how colours directly across from another
cancels the other out.
For
instance, red is directly across from green on the colour wheel. The colour green
will neutralizes the colour red, which is why green concealer works best to cover
red acne blemishes. So you can look at your skin complaint and work
out the colour you’d need to fix it. Now that we got our art lesson for the day out of the way, let’s move on to discuss the uses for which each colour concealer is best suited.
Colour Correcting - Green
This
is your secret weapon. If you don’t already own one, go get it! Use this to
conceal extreme redness. When you’re met with a mountainous spot on your
forehead apply a green concealer first, this will cancel out the redness and
then you can go on to apply your usual concealer. It will also help if
you suffer from rosacea, broken blood vessels, flushed cheeks, acne scars,
blotchy areas and redness around the nose. If
you have widespread redness, (rosacea, windburn or sunburn), then a colour
correcting green primer will be best to significantly reduce redness and
give an even toned base for flawless foundation application.
These colours are made up from a mixture of red, orange and yellow, which sit across from green, purple and blue, making them the best remedy for brightening the eye area and banishing really dark under eye circles. They’re also great at covering up bruises, veins and brightening sallow olive skin. Since it’s a great brightening agent, these concealers also work well to cover raccoon eyes and to give sallow olive tones skin a much needed radiance.
Colour Correcting - Yellow
Yellow tones are perfect for hiding purple or blue bruises, veins, and
under eye circles, so it’s no surprise yellow is right across from purple on
the colour wheel. Yellow concealers are typically the most general, and are
great for evening out skin tone to give a bright base for your foundation.
Depending on your skin tone,
they can also be a perfect as an eye shadow base if you don’t have a eye primer
handy.
Use yellow for slightly pink areas and mild
redness, but also for areas of general concern. Yellow works well for most skin
tones and will help even out your complexion.
Colour Correcting - Orange/Red
If
you are olive or dark skinned you will need to choose darker shades, as pastel
hues are too white and will leave a chalky finish. Instead of a pinky peach,
use a richer, brighter peach or orange to disguise dark circles and
hyper pigmentation. It might sound crazy, but those with really dark skin can actually
benefit from using orange-based red lipsticks to help hide bags under their
eyes. For all of you with lighter skin tones,
you will want to stay away from orange concealers for the most part. The
exception? If you’re doing facial contouring and need something that can work
as a liquid bronzer.
Colour Correcting - Purple/Violet
Purple
sits opposite yellow on the wheel, so use this to neutralises sallow skin and
yellow discolouration. Unlike the others, you should use violet primers all over
to correct a lacklustre complexion. People with
a pasty, dull, yellow complexion will love how a purple concealer or primer
adds a beautiful glow to their face. As you probably guessed, purple is
directly across from yellow on the colour wheel. To remove yellow tones from
your entire face, consider a colour correcting purple primer. If you’re looking
to conceal yellow spots, a spot concealer is best.
Colour Correcting - Neutral
If
you’re one of the lucky ones that doesn’t have too many problem areas to hide,
this will work fine for you. Any regular concealer should work to veil little
imperfections or the occasional pimple. Just choose a shade similar to your
skin tone, or one shade lighter, and you’re all set. This is also the best kind
of concealer to use as a primer for making your lipstick last all day and night.
White concealers can
be intimidating if you’re not sure how to properly use them.
to avoid looking like a sick hospital patient, be sure
to use white concealers for highlighting areas on your face. For instance, when
you’re highlighting and contouring your cheek bones, dab a little on your upper
cheek bones, right under your eyes, blending outward towards your ears. You can
also use this in the inner and outer corners of your eyes to appear more awake,
under your brow bone for a subtle brow highlight, down the middle of your nose
and in your cupid’s bow for a perfectly highlighted face.
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